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Lake Arenal sits among the hills of Guanacaste. Lake Arenal is a picture-perfect, man made lake with an area of 33 square miles; the largest lake in Costa Rica. It is surrounded by rolling hills, partly pastured and partly forested, and English might just think they are in the Lake District, Australians in Tasmania, Americans in the Pennsylvania or New York hills, Canadians pretty much at home from wherever, and Kiwis in the South Island lakes (but minus the sheep). The origins of the lake began millennia ago when earth movements created a depression which became a small lagoon, hence the sometime reference to Laguna Arenal, relating to its original name before the lake proper was made. In 1973, the Costa Rican Institute of Electricity (ICE), built a 88 meter long, 56 meter tall dam at the eastern end of the valley, raising the level of the lagoon and creating what is now Lake Arenal (taking three years to fill up). So although it is “man-made”, it did begin as a smaller, natural lagoon. ICE has a battery of wind turbines on the southwest end of the lake to feed off the never-ending winds (the same winds that keep the windsurfers and kiteboarders happy). They boast that the turbines generate more electricity than any other wind turbines in the world (windsurfers and kiteboarders take note!)
The winds are pretty-much year-round, but November through April are the windiest months when wind is just about guaranteed every day. The lake temperature remains mild at 18C-21C year round (65-70F), so if involved in lake activities, a shorty wetsuit generally assures maximum comfort all day. Being sweet water, the chop conditions in the lake generate some steep ramps when the wind kicks up, which can be up to a metre high. If liking big air, 30 foot or more jumps are achievable. For the kiters among us, there are flat water speed zones in various locations of the lake for those ridiculous airs, and pretty much sailing every day (except maybe 20 days a year where the wind is too strong for kiting and the trusty old windsurfer can be brought back into play). Apart from the maybe 20 big wind days each year (40-50 knots and up), which are for expert and the more adventurous only, the rest of the year is well suited to intermediates, and there are also flat water zones where beginners can start learning the ropes on all but the most gnarly days. Then when the confidence starts to grow, the cauldron in the middle of the lake beckons. As mentioned, November through April pretty much guarantees wind each day. May through October still sees wind, but on a less consistent basis. One day can be 4.3 all day, then the next day you may be falling off the plane with a 6.5. There is almost always at least some wind though, so the kiters really take off (literally) on an almost daily basis. Kiters also note that the consistency of the winds means you avoid the sink-then-fly gusty conditions, also the sudden changes in wind that can leave you stranded or getting tea-bagged. The wind tends to build slowly, hold, then die slowly, allowing plenty of time to get off the lake if it looks like things are about to change. The wind pattern is often glass at daybreak, followed by a rapid pick-up after sunrise which last through to mid day. There is generally a lunchtime lull (convenient!), then from 2.30pm it starts again until sunset. Sometimes is dies off at night, sometimes it doesn’t and just keeps blowing. The wind keeps the Tilawa shore of the lake reasonably cool all year round, but few days are cool enough to be uncomfortable in shorts and t-shirt. When it does get a bit cooler, we often get the log fires going at night, which make for a pleasant sit-around-and-chat environment. We usually see the log fires lit at various times through the year, except for March through May, which tend to be the warmer months. August sees temperatures allowing for the fires to be lit up maybe half the time, and this repeats through to February. The nights are always cool enough that air-con is not needed, though some nights are more comfortable with the ceiling fans activated, especially in the aforementioned warmer months of March through May. Generally though, a light sheet and a blanket make for maximum comfort. We get the same rain patterns as the rest of the country, but note that the rain falls more heavily in some places than others. For example, the far shore of the lake gets almost double the rain that the Tilawa side gets, and it is not unusual to sit in air-cooled sunshine on the Tilawa side and watch downpours on the other side. When it does rain, it is often the monsoon type rain which lasts for an hour or so then dies. Sometimes it lasts longer, and can go all day, but this is more likely to be followed by a sunny day than to go on even longer. This is just an overview of the weather, for those wanting more hard core wind info, go here {link to same wind conditions page as Bill is using}.
The perfectly coned Arenal Volcano lies at the opposite (east) end of the lake, making a stunning sight from the lake, especially when reflected in the waters. The volcano is active, and can often be heard rumbling and growling, sometimes spitting house sized rocks and lava hourly. There are tours around the lower slopes of the volcano, also some observation points on the surrounding trails, but it is generally too risky to get too close due to its activity. Best to keep a distance and watch at night as it spits. The cone is often enveloped by cloud though, so it is a little bit pot-luck whether you get a clear view of the evening’s pyrotechnics, and further luck is needed for a particularly active night. So it can be disappointing sometimes for visitors just there for a day. There are some tours to the rim that advertise they are “90% safe”, we leave it to your imagination what happens the remaining 10% of times. Only for the brave – top up your life insurance beforehand. The volcano lies at the far end of the lake, and can be seen from the Tilawa from afar. The good news is that if the volcano really goes off, we are far enough away where we may get a bit dusty, but we will not get large, hot things landing on our heads. The volcano sits next to the town of La Fortuna, which is the destination of most who want to see the volcano up close. There are multiple other vantage points, including Tabacon, and the Arenal Observatory. If in La Fortuna, apart from the volcano and the local Parque, there is little of appeal in the town. So most move on after a day (seen it, done it style). The Tilawa is located around the lake from La Fortuna heading towards Tilaran, and is about 1.45 hours by road. Note the road from La Fortuna is not the best, but not the worst either. A bit of a bumpy rider. Head towards Nuevo Arenal, after which the road gets a bit better.
Parque Nacional Volcan Arenal Aside from Arenal Volcano, the park also incorporates Lake Arenal, and the smaller Chato volcano, which is no longer active and has collapsed in on itself and now has an emerald lake in the crater surrounded by forest. As with the volcano, the park is most easily accessed from La Fortuna. There are a number of trails and walks in the park that can keep you busy for a day.
The nearest town from the Tilawa is Tilaran, lying 8 km by road from the hotel. It is a small, quiet, rural town with a supermarket, several bars and restaurants, and a pleasant town square around which pretty much everything is located. In the other direction from the hotel, about 25km up the road, lies the smaller town of Nuevo Arenal. Unlike Tilaran, Nuevo Arenal has more of a one-horse-town feel to it, with pretty much everything situated on the road that bisects the town. The town was created when the lake was made on the original setting of Arenal (presumably what we might call Viejo Arenal, or Old Arenal) and contains little of interest to tourists. However, the Arenal Botanical Gardens are located 4km east of Nuevo Arenal and contains 2,200 rare tropical species of plants including anthuriums, bromeliads, ferns, gingers, heliconias, roses, orchids, and gorguras. The gardens also have an Asian garden with waterfalls and live snakes in cages. Butterflies and birdlife are all over, and it is a magnificent place to while away a few hours.
Most hotels in the region have restaurants. The Tilawa Restaurant, serves local and international fare, is open 6am through 10pm daily. There are various other restaurants within reach of a short drive from the Tilawa, along with a number in Tilaran. The local food tend to be local fare, although there are a number of good pizza restaurants nearby. Local fish farms generate trout and tilapia, and are available in many restaurants in the area. To get to local restaurants, a car is needed, although taxis are easily available to those who do not have their own wheels. At the Hotel Tilawa Restaurant, especially for the long-stayers, we create different specials daily to stave off the “menu boredom” that sometimes occurs after being in the same place for weeks on end. Please feel free to suggest what you would like to see as the special the next day, then leave the rest to us.
We would claim our Las Brisas Bar is the best place for an evening sip, but, of course, you would expect us to say that wouldn’t you! However, there are a number of other local places to check out if you get tired of our micro-brew. There are a number of busy local bars in Tilaran, also some smaller bars dotted around the roadside within easy reach of the hotel. The local bars tend to be a little samey though, and the more pleasant hang-outs tend to be at the hotels, although they are generally quieter. Some of the bars in Tilaran get very busy with the young crowd Thursday through Saturday. Saturday sees the eruption of Equus Disco, a 10 min drive from the Tilawa towards Nuevo Arenal. Equus is what might be called a “jungle disco”, and has been described as “the wildest disco south of Acapulco”. It is where just about everyone goes Saturday night. The setting is really quite stunning, set among open air, multi-layered rocks and jungle, and is worth a visit just to see it. At times the howler monkeys forget their sleepless experience of a few weeks before, and bed down again for the night on the roof of the disco. As they do not travel at night, they are left with little choice but to get no sleep again and howl along to the music beat. Bill (our kite master) often takes over the video screen at the disco and shows some action sequences from the previous weeks, further adding to the atmosphere. A must see. It really depends where you are coming from of course, but the following should cover most bases: By Air & Car There are now two international airports in Costa Rica. San Jose, the capital, and Liberia, the new international airport just opened. Liberia only opened recently, and the good news is that the number of international flights into Liberia are increasing monthly. Liberia is far closer to the Tilawa than San Jose, being 1 hour 15 mins by road, whereas San Jose runs at about 3 1/2 hours by road. If driving from Liberia, you now need to get on route one heading south to San Jose. Do this by leaving the airport and taking the Daniel Oduber road to Liberia, where you will find a major intersection to Route One. When arriving at Canas, turn left, then the directions are the same as if coming from San Jose. If flying into San Jose and driving, get on to Route 1 outside the airport heading north to Liberia and Canas. Just drive straight for 3 hours or so, and you will arrive at Canas. At Canas, turn right into the town immediately after you see the large bull ring on your right hand side on route 1. Then just drive straight through Canas heading towards Tilaran. Just outside of Canas you will come to a T-junction, turn left at this junction, and keep going straight and it will take you into Tilaran. When coming into Tilaran, just as you enter the town and as you arrive at the very first stop sign, you will see a hotel called "The Windsurf Hotel" on your left. At this point, simply turn around (180 degrees) and head back the other way! You will almost imediately arrive back at the fork in the road that brought you into Tilaran. Do not take the left fork - as this will obviously take you back to Canas - take the RIGHT fork, and then keep going. At this point you are 8k from the Tilawa. There is only one more complication. About 4k up the road you will come across another fork, where you will see a sign for the Tilawa. Go LEFT at this fork, then just keep going for another 4k or so, and you will see the hotel entrance on your left (you can't miss it). Need airport pick-up? If you want to avoid the stress of driving, we can arrange pick-ups from both airports. A uniformed driver will be at the airport with a sign with your name on, he will then bring you right to the hotel. The cost for 3 people of less (standard saloon car) from San Jose is US$ 100, Liberia is US$ 65. For a 12-seater mini-bus (more than 3 people, up to 8 or so), the cost is US$ 120 for San Jose pick-up, and US$ 75 for a Liberia pick-up. Wan to get your own taxi at the airport? No problem, but it may cost a little more than the above quoted prices, and you will often need to help them find the hotel, so make sure you bring a map and the directions! Note also that some car rental companies might give directions through La Fortuna. This is NOT the way to go, and will add an hour or two to the drive; insist on heading to Canas. Driving from Monteverde? From Monteverde, head to Santa Elena, then Numbes, next on to Dos de Tilaran, Patios, Chiripa, Quebrada Grande, finally Tilaran. The trip from Monteverde takes 2 hours or so, but may take longer if the roads are wet. Driving from La Fortuna? Take the road around the lake heading through Nuevo Arenal to Tilaran. The hotel will be on your left 8km before Tilaran and is clearly marked. Drive time is around 1 hour 45 mins. Driving from Manuel Antonio? Take the coast road, Route 34, up to Route 27, which then connects to Route 1 heading North to Canas. Then follow the same directions as from San Jose airport. Drive time between 4 and 5 hours. Driving from Tamarindo? Head to Liberia, then South on Route One down to Canas. ie follow the directions as from Liberia airport. Coming by Bus? From San Jose, it costs about US$ 5 per person and takes about 4.5 hours. You should take the Tilaran bus (not La Fortuna), then take a taxi from Tilaran to the hotel, which will cost about US$ 6. The buses depart San Jose daily 7.30am, 9.30am, 12.45pm, 3.30pm and 6.30pm (this is subject to change). For the Tilaran bus, you need the Auto Transportes Tilaran bus stop. If coming from other places, the ultimate destination needs to be Tilaran, which will often require changes at Liberia or Canas. The Canas change is quite tricky as you need to find the right bus stop in Canas for the Tilaran bus, which is not clearly marked as being the Tilaran stop. You will need to ask a few times, but everyone in Canas knows where it is and you will finally get there. It is a only a few blocks from where you get dropped in Canas, but keep asking every block to make sure you have not been misdirected (the Canas folk don’t misdirect on purpose, but sometimes they get it wrong!) Depending on where you come from by bus, you may end up routing through La Fortuna. The bus from La Fortuna leaves early morning, so you will need to overnight in La Fortuna. You can check in La Fortuna what time the bus leaves and where it leaves from. La Fortuna is small, and most hotels are close to the main road where the bus leaves from. The bus cost from La Fortuna is minimal at a dollar or so. |
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